Jieyu's License

Friday, December 16, 2011

Play Football with Wear Hanfu


Some Chinese Han people  think they can't play any sport if they wear a Hanfu. But I can't agree with them. Actually ancient Chinese play football since from 3rd century BC. In ancient China, people call football "Cuju " (蹴鞠 or ) .

Cuju (Chinese: ; Mandarin Pinyin: cùjú; Jyutping: Cuk1 guk1; literally "kick ball", pronounced [tsʰûtɕy̌]) is an ancient code of football with similarities to association football. It is seen by some to be a forerunner of modern football  and originated in China, and was also played in Korea, Japan and Vietnam.


Cute football for ladies and kids
The game of cuju was first mentioned in the Zhan Guo Ce (under State of Qi's section) and later in the Sima Qian's Shiji (under Su Qin's biography), written during the Han Dynasty.Some claim that the Yellow Emperor invented the game for military training purposes, while others place its emergence during China's Warring States Period (476-221 BC). In any case, it certainly existed during this period. A competitive form of cuju was used as fitness training for military cavaliers, while other forms were played for entertainment in wealthy cities like Linzi.

During the Han Dynasty (206 BC-AD 220), the popularity of cuju spread from the army to the royal courts and upper classes. It is said that the Han emperor Wu Di enjoyed the sport. At the same time, cuju games were standardized and rules were established. Football matches were often held inside the imperial palace. A type of court called ju chang was built especially for cuju matches, which had six crescent-shaped goal posts at each end.

The sport was improved during the Tang Dynasty (618-907). First of all, the feather-stuffed ball was replaced by an air-filled ball with a two-layered hull. Also, two different types of goal posts emerged: One was made by setting up posts with a net between them and the other consisted of just one goal post in the middle of the field. The Tang Dynasty capital of Chang'an was filled with cuju football fields, in the backyards of large mansions, and some were even established in the grounds of the palaces.

Soldiers who belonged to the imperial army and Gold Bird Guard often formed cuju football teams for the delight of the emperor and his court. The level of female cuju teams also improved. Records indicate that once a 17-year-old girl beat a team of army soldiers. Cuju football even became popular amongst the scholars and intellectuals, and if a courtier lacked skill in the game, he could pardon himself by acting as a scorekeeper.

Cuju flourished during the Song Dynasty (960-1279) due to social and economic development, extending its popularity to every class in society. At that time, professional cuju players were quite popular, and the sport began to take on a commercial edge. Professional cuju players fell into two groups: One was trained by and performed for the royal court (unearthed copper mirrors and brush pots from the Song often depict professional performances) and the other consisted of civilians who made a living as cuju players.

One Hundred Children in the Long Spring (春百子), a painting by Chinese artist Su Hanchen (苏汉, active 1130–1160s AD), Song Dynasty

In the Song Dynasty only one goal post was set up in the center of the field. Cuju organizations were set up in large cities called Qi Yun She or Yuan She – now known as the earliest professional cuju club – whose members were either cuju lovers or professional performers. Non-professional players had to formally appoint a professional as his or her teacher and pay a fee before becoming a member. This process ensured an income for the professionals, unlike cuju of the Tang Dynasty.


The following image is  a Song Dynasty's football. Is real looks like modern time's football. 


In the 10th century, a Cuju club Qi Yun She (云社 developed in China; every year there was a national championship Shan Yue Zheng Sai (山岳正) organised by Qi Yun She.

The right image is a traditional Chinese painting. We can see a Ming Emperor who was watching an imperial football games. The football players wore Ming Dynasty Hanfu "Sa Zi".

Song Dynasty Style Hanfu

       Some features of Tang Clothing carried into the Song Dynasty Such as court customs. Song court customs often use red color for their garments with black leather shoe and hats.Collar edges and sleeve edges of all clothes that have been excavated were decorated with laces or embroidered patterns. Such clothes were decorated with patterns of peony, camellia, plum blossom, and lily, etc. Song Empress often had three to five distinctive Jewelry-like marks on their face (Two side of the cheek,other two next to the eyebrows and one on the forehead). Although some of Song clothing have similarities with previous dynasties, some unique characteristics separate it from the rest. Many of Song Clothing goes into Yuan and Ming.

The following images are about restore a Northern Song Dynasty lady's wearing: a leno  garment and a thin silk skirt.
北宋:紗羅褙子素絹裙
The following image is to restore a lady's wearing according to a Song Dynasty traditional painting. 
Su-Luo (a kind of slik, very thin) narrow sleeve clothes and Ru-Qun  dress.
 素羅小袖窄衣裳,復原宋代畫中襦裙仕女
Song Dynasty's ladies printed skirts gauze material recovery, ball pattern, moire and its variants derived from the Song Dynasty style fabrics, including construction grid fan, painted by a large number of popular patterns, this pattern of selection of cluster six goals in one "cluster six curd filling pattern "produced a skirt material.

宋代仕女紗羅印花裙料復原,球紋、龜紋以及其衍生出來的各種變體是宋代織物,包括建築格扇、彩繪所大量流行的紋樣,這次選用簇六球紋的其中一種“簇六填花球紋”製作了一件裙料。
Here are some images about to restore Southern Song Dynasty lady's wearing: hibiscus floral sprays magpie bird leno garment, golden floral collar, with wishful camellia pattern printed gauze pants.
南宋妝束,芙蓉折枝鵲鳥紋暗花紗羅褙子,印金花卉領邊,搭配如意山茶花紋印花紗羅褲,抓拍了走動時下擺瀲灩的瞬間。
Details of Hibiscus floral sprays Magpie Bird Leno Garment
Details of wishful camellia pattern printed gauze pants