Ming Dynasty Hanfu

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Ming Dynasty also brought many changes to its clothing as many dynasties do. They implemented metal buttons and the collar changed from the symmetrical type of the Song Dynasty (960-1279) to the main circular type. Compared with the costume of the Tang Dynasty (618-907), the proportion of the upper outer garment to lower skirt in the Ming Dynasty was significantly inverted. Since the upper outer garment was shorter and the lower garment was longer, the jacket gradually became longer to shorten the length of the exposed skirt. Young ladies in the mid Ming Dynasty usually preferred to dress in these waistcoats. The waistcoats in the Qing Dynasty were transformed from those of the Yuan Dynasty. During the Ming Dynasty, Confucian codes and ideals was popularized and it has significant effect on clothing.


There are some kinds of normal Ming Dynasty style Hanfu introductions in following paragraphs.

Chan Ao (coat, Chinese: 長襖) 
Changa Ao (Chinese: 長襖) is the traditional Chinese attire for women. It is a form of formal wear, and is often perceived as a longer version of ruqun. However, it was actually developed from zhiduo during the Ming Dynasty, and is worn over a skirt. It is wide-sleeved, shorter than zhiduo and has no side panels (暗擺) at the side slits (thus showing the skirt worn underneath). There is often an optional detachable protective huling (護領, lit. "protect collar") sewn to the collar. The huling can be of white or any other dark colours. The collar is of the same colour as the clothing.

Dao Pao (coat, Chinese: 道袍)
Daopao/Xingyi (道袍/行衣) is the traditional Chinese attire for men. It is a form of formal wear in the Ming Dynasty. It is a full-length robe with side slits beginning below the waist. There are side panels (暗擺) at the slits to conceal the undergarments. It is wide sleeved and has a belt (大帶). The collar can be of the same or different colour as the clothing, but has to be of the same colour as the edges of the clothing. An optional detachable protective huling (護領, lit. "protect collar") can be sewn to the collar. The huling can be of white or any other dark colours. Chinese sources indicate it has been worn since the Song Dynasty.[1] However, other sources states that it evolved from a military-styled tunic, the kuzhe, that was inspired by "nomad warriors from the north". Despite its name (meaning 'robe of Taoism'), daopao is worn by all men regardless of religious background.

Yuan Ling Shan (coat, Chinese: 圓領衫)
Yuan Ling Shan (圓領衫) is a form of traditional Chinese attire. It is a formal attire worn by men. It is also the most common form of attire for (both male and female) officials and nobles during the Ming Dynasty. The difference between civilian's and officials'/nobles' yuanlingshan is that officials'/nobles' yuanlingshan has a mandarin square (補子) on it. The sleeves of the yuanlingshan are mostly curved with a narrow sleeve cuff (琵琶袖, pipa sleeve). It has round collar and side slits. Men's yuanlingshan (regardless of civilian's/officials') have side panels (暗擺) at the side slits to conceal the undergarments. The collar is secured with a button, and a crossed-collar undergarment must be worn. However, yuanlingshan is not worn alone. Underneath the Yuanlingshan is worn the Da Hu(褡護, sleeveless or half sleeve vest with side panels) and the Tie Li(貼裏，men's inner dress, sometimes replaced with the Zhi Shen). According to the Ming's Government letter against Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the Ming Government bestowed on him a set of Chang Fu (常服羅) containing a red yuanlingshan with kirin mandarin square(大紅織金胷背麒麟圓領), dark blue Da Hu(青褡護) , and green Tie Li(綠貼裏).

During an Imperial Funeral, Ming officers wore a grey blue Yuanlingshan (without Mandarin Square), buffalo horn panel belt(烏角帶) and wushamao. This set was known as 'Qing Su Fu'(青素服).

Lan Shan (clothing, Chinese: 襕衫)
Lan Shan (襴衫) is the traditional Chinese attire for men. It is a formal attire worn by scholars and students (生員) taking the imperial examination in Ming Dynasty. It is wide sleeved, has black edges, and has a round collar secured with a button. A crossed-collar undergarment must be worn. It may or may not have side slits (with side panels (暗擺) to conceal the undergarment). It has been worn since the Tang Dynasty.

Bian Fu (clothing, Chinese: 弁服; pinyin: biànfú)
Bian Fu is a traditional Chinese outfit consisting of a knee-length tunic over a skirt or pair of pants. This two-piece costume was considered to be a ceremonial dress.

The tunic for a top that extended all the way to the knees. This was worn on top of a skirt that reached the length of the ankles. The skirt under the tunic was worn only during formal occasions. The pien (弁) was a cylinder-shaped hat that accommodated the outfit.

Zhiduo (clothing, Chinese: 直裰)

Zhiduo (直裰), or Zhishen (直身), is the traditional Chinese attire for men. It is a form of casual wear, and is the most common form of attire for men in the Ming Dynasty. It was first worn in Song Dynasty.[1][2] It is a full-length robe with side slits beginning below the waist, often with side panels (暗擺) at the slits as well to conceal the undergarments. The sleeves are mostly curved with a narrow sleeve cuff (琵琶袖, pipa sleeve). There is often an optional detachable protective huling (護領, lit. "protect collar") sewn to the collar. The huling can be of white or any other dark colours. The collar is of the same colour as the clothing.


The following videos are about Ming Dynasty style Hanfu.

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