Tang Dynasty Style Hanfu, Jieyu's Podcast 2

Here is my second episode, enjoy, LOL

"Tang Dynasty Style Hanfu"- The Second Episode of "Perfect costume"


Perfect Costume by Jieyu Yan is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported License.

What's Han Dynasty Style Hanfu?

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    China's complete code of costume and trappings was established in the Han Dynasty (206BC-220AD). The yarn-dyeing, embroidering and metal-processing technologies developed rapidly in the period, spurring changes in costume and adornments.The following image is Western Han Dynasty style Hanfu,  "Qu Ju" (曲裾).

    The costume code of the Western Han Dynasty (206BC-8AD) followed the one established in the Qin Dynasty (221-206 BC). In the Eastern Han Dynasty, people in black had to wear purple silk adornments to match their clothes. People usually wore costume with a long hat at grand ceremonies offering sacrifices to gods or ancestors. The dress of the queen in these ceremonies consisted of dark-purple frock and black trousers. The silk dress of the queen consisted of cyan frock and buff trousers.

According to Changsha Mawangdui tomb Lady Xin-zhui's longevity embroidered Quju to restore

     The Western Han Dynasty implemented the Shenyi (long coat) system, which featured a cicada-shaped hat, red clothes and "田"-shaped collar. In addition, people of that time wore jade articles and red shoes. The frock and skirt were sewn together in the Shenyi system. Underpants for memorial ceremonies were decorated with black brims, and those for court dress in feudal China were decorated with red brims. All the garments were collectively called as Chanyi (unlined garment). The following photos is real Western Han Dynasty style Hanfu. (From Changsha Mawangdui Lady Xin-zhui's tomb)

This is a piece fabric of longevity embroidered.

    Costumes in the Han Dynasty fell into two categories according to Yijin (one or two pieces making up the front of a Chinese jacket or grown). There were two types of garments: the curving-front unlined garment with buttons deviously down from the collar to the axilla; the straight-front unlined garment with buttons were straightly down from the collar to the lower part. Curving-front garment originated from the Shenyi (long coat) prevalent in the Warring States Period, and was still in use in the Han Dynasty. But few people wore the Shenyi garments during the Eastern Han Dynasty.

Eastern Han Dynasty Style Hanfu

Eastern Han Dynasty Style Hanfu

    There were specific stipulations on colors of court garments in the Han Dynasty. Officers must wear garments according to the five time periods, i.e. cyan garments in the spring, red in the first two months of the summer, yellow in the last month of the summer, white in the autumn and black in the winter.

Costumes of the Han Dynasty had 7 features: 

1. Wearers must expose underpants' collar form , as the collar was big and curving;

2. Clothes must use white cloth as lining;

3. The width of sleeve was 0.4 meters;

4. The blouse had no sleeve;

5. Wearers of fur clothes should have the fur facing outside;

6. Waistband was very exquisite. Belt hook was made of gold in various lively and interesting animal figures;

7. The male kept the habitude of wearing walking sabres without blades for decoration only.

    Female laborers of the Han Dynasty always wore short jackets and long skirts, and their knees were always decorated with long hanging waistbands. Male laborers often wore jackets and calf-nose trousers with aprons around the garments. Farmers, workers, businessmen and scholars were all in the same dressing style at that time.

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Jieyu's First Podcast "Hanfu Movement"

My First Podcast "Hanfu Movement"

Ming Dynasty Hanfu

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Ming Dynasty also brought many changes to its clothing as many dynasties do. They implemented metal buttons and the collar changed from the symmetrical type of the Song Dynasty (960-1279) to the main circular type. Compared with the costume of the Tang Dynasty (618-907), the proportion of the upper outer garment to lower skirt in the Ming Dynasty was significantly inverted. Since the upper outer garment was shorter and the lower garment was longer, the jacket gradually became longer to shorten the length of the exposed skirt. Young ladies in the mid Ming Dynasty usually preferred to dress in these waistcoats. The waistcoats in the Qing Dynasty were transformed from those of the Yuan Dynasty. During the Ming Dynasty, Confucian codes and ideals was popularized and it has significant effect on clothing.


There are some kinds of normal Ming Dynasty style Hanfu introductions in following paragraphs.

Chan Ao (coat, Chinese: 長襖) 
Changa Ao (Chinese: 長襖) is the traditional Chinese attire for women. It is a form of formal wear, and is often perceived as a longer version of ruqun. However, it was actually developed from zhiduo during the Ming Dynasty, and is worn over a skirt. It is wide-sleeved, shorter than zhiduo and has no side panels (暗擺) at the side slits (thus showing the skirt worn underneath). There is often an optional detachable protective huling (護領, lit. "protect collar") sewn to the collar. The huling can be of white or any other dark colours. The collar is of the same colour as the clothing.

Dao Pao (coat, Chinese: 道袍)
Daopao/Xingyi (道袍/行衣) is the traditional Chinese attire for men. It is a form of formal wear in the Ming Dynasty. It is a full-length robe with side slits beginning below the waist. There are side panels (暗擺) at the slits to conceal the undergarments. It is wide sleeved and has a belt (大帶). The collar can be of the same or different colour as the clothing, but has to be of the same colour as the edges of the clothing. An optional detachable protective huling (護領, lit. "protect collar") can be sewn to the collar. The huling can be of white or any other dark colours. Chinese sources indicate it has been worn since the Song Dynasty.[1] However, other sources states that it evolved from a military-styled tunic, the kuzhe, that was inspired by "nomad warriors from the north". Despite its name (meaning 'robe of Taoism'), daopao is worn by all men regardless of religious background.

Yuan Ling Shan (coat, Chinese: 圓領衫)
Yuan Ling Shan (圓領衫) is a form of traditional Chinese attire. It is a formal attire worn by men. It is also the most common form of attire for (both male and female) officials and nobles during the Ming Dynasty. The difference between civilian's and officials'/nobles' yuanlingshan is that officials'/nobles' yuanlingshan has a mandarin square (補子) on it. The sleeves of the yuanlingshan are mostly curved with a narrow sleeve cuff (琵琶袖, pipa sleeve). It has round collar and side slits. Men's yuanlingshan (regardless of civilian's/officials') have side panels (暗擺) at the side slits to conceal the undergarments. The collar is secured with a button, and a crossed-collar undergarment must be worn. However, yuanlingshan is not worn alone. Underneath the Yuanlingshan is worn the Da Hu(褡護, sleeveless or half sleeve vest with side panels) and the Tie Li(貼裏，men's inner dress, sometimes replaced with the Zhi Shen). According to the Ming's Government letter against Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the Ming Government bestowed on him a set of Chang Fu (常服羅) containing a red yuanlingshan with kirin mandarin square(大紅織金胷背麒麟圓領), dark blue Da Hu(青褡護) , and green Tie Li(綠貼裏).

During an Imperial Funeral, Ming officers wore a grey blue Yuanlingshan (without Mandarin Square), buffalo horn panel belt(烏角帶) and wushamao. This set was known as 'Qing Su Fu'(青素服).

Lan Shan (clothing, Chinese: 襕衫)
Lan Shan (襴衫) is the traditional Chinese attire for men. It is a formal attire worn by scholars and students (生員) taking the imperial examination in Ming Dynasty. It is wide sleeved, has black edges, and has a round collar secured with a button. A crossed-collar undergarment must be worn. It may or may not have side slits (with side panels (暗擺) to conceal the undergarment). It has been worn since the Tang Dynasty.

Bian Fu (clothing, Chinese: 弁服; pinyin: biànfú)
Bian Fu is a traditional Chinese outfit consisting of a knee-length tunic over a skirt or pair of pants. This two-piece costume was considered to be a ceremonial dress.

The tunic for a top that extended all the way to the knees. This was worn on top of a skirt that reached the length of the ankles. The skirt under the tunic was worn only during formal occasions. The pien (弁) was a cylinder-shaped hat that accommodated the outfit.

Zhiduo (clothing, Chinese: 直裰)

Zhiduo (直裰), or Zhishen (直身), is the traditional Chinese attire for men. It is a form of casual wear, and is the most common form of attire for men in the Ming Dynasty. It was first worn in Song Dynasty.[1][2] It is a full-length robe with side slits beginning below the waist, often with side panels (暗擺) at the slits as well to conceal the undergarments. The sleeves are mostly curved with a narrow sleeve cuff (琵琶袖, pipa sleeve). There is often an optional detachable protective huling (護領, lit. "protect collar") sewn to the collar. The huling can be of white or any other dark colours. The collar is of the same colour as the clothing.


The following videos are about Ming Dynasty style Hanfu.

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Tang Dynasty style wedding held in Beijing

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The news reporter said this is a Han Dynasty style wedding, but actually this is a Tang Dynasty wedding. Because the bride wore a Gao Yao Ru Qun (高腰襦裙) which was popular in Tang Dynasty.

Nowadays, Chinese brides and grooms normally wear Chinese Cheungsams and Mandarin jackets, or western style suits, at wedding ceremonies. So newlyweds wearing Tang Dynasty style outfits to get married make for a really eye-catching sight.

A truly old fashioned wedding took place in Downtown Beijing on Monday. The newlyweds suited up in the type of ancient costumes worn by Chinese people during the Tang Dynasty, about two-thousand years ago.

The couple followed the procedures of a historic Chinese wedding, first by freeing captive fish, and then having the groom recite the wedding oath in traditional verse.

The bride also put her and the groom's hair into a sachet, a step which is very unique to a Han style wedding as well.

The groom said, "This wedding satisfies our love for traditional Han culture. I hope our move can help promote traditional Han culture."

The Tan Dynasty style wedding is a testament to the revival of traditional Chinese culture. There are now Han culture clubs throughout the country. Members avidly wear old style costumes and play traditional musical instruments. But the ancient costume wedding is quite a fresh phenomenon.


 P.S.
Gao Yao Ru Qun (高腰襦裙) means a kind of high waist skirt. It is a unique women's dress which was popular in the Sui and Tang  Dynasties. in ancient times, most women's jacket dresses skirt beam is notvery high, Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties period, and the emergence of a skirt around his waist the very high waist skirt, called the waist of some clothing in the history ofmulti-jacket skirt, according to the research it is nowgenerally called the chest-jacket skirt change (only the status quo). Chest-jacket skirt but be careful, in fact, chest-waistskirt and jacket jacket skirt are two different concepts, the above-mentioned [that is, "is the chest-waist jacket skirtjacket skirt," saying it] is just the status quo. Real sense, thehigh waist skirt jacket chest interpersonal line (that is, beltedposition) is in the chest, waist, between the lower chest andwaist between. The chest-jacket skirt above the waist line isin the chest, between the two is actually very gooddistinction. But the same point is chest and waist areavailable to pay or receive breasted.

This is a Gao Yao Ru Qun of Sui Dynasty.

And this is a Gao Yao Ru Qun of Tang Dynasty

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Modern Hanfu

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Nowadays, many people they love our traditional culture and worship our ancestry’s clothes style. For this reason they wear Hanfu, found Hanfu clubs, hold activities on Hanfu and so on.

Activities

1.     Wearing Hanfu to sacrifice

2.     Wearing Hanfu to celebrate to be an adult

3.     Holding Hanfu wedding

Dear friends, do you like Hanfu? Do you want to revive Hanfu? We can wear it to a party or some certain places but not in daily life. I think the following video is a good example for us.

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Lady and Maid's wear in Flourishing Tang Dynasty (盛唐, AD 626-741)

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Recovery Description:

Flourishing Tang (盛唐), sometimes known as High Tang or Golden Tang (AD 626 to AD 741 years). This is a group of mainly popular in the late Kai Yuan years (開元, AD 712- 713) two more typical of master and servant, dressed housewife jacket draped silk dress, maid round neck men. Kaiyuan after the Tang Dynasty image more and more plump, loose dress, draped silk very popular to create a transparent veil, down around and tuck one end into the chest or chest, often skirt printed with large flowers on the pattern. Fluffy hair, and taking the bun down with a small amountbefore the hair is prevalent in this section Kaiyuan period, studies suggest that the historical data contained in the "dark Man bun", wait for verification.

Lady's wear: White printing yarn cape, Green celtics, Light-colored short-sleeve, Saffron skirt, Green shoes.

(夫人：白印花紗帔子, 綠衫子, 淺色半袖, 紅花裙, 綠翹頭履)

Maid's wear: Pink round neck printed gown,  Banbi (to wear inside), Color striped pants, Red sox line shoes

(侍女：粉紅印花圓領袍, 內穿半臂, 彩條紋褲, 紅襪線鞋)

The following images are traditional paintings and sculptures Astana tomb and Zhuo tomb in Kai Yuan years.

(開元年間 阿斯塔納哈拉和卓墓出土絹畫)

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